Superlatives are called for to describe 2012. The lovely 2012 vintage confirms its similarities with the outstanding 2005; very concentrated, very rich, its delicacy underscored by a delightful freshness.
This blessed vintage confirms its altogether exceptional greatness. The wines are very concentrated, with lots of body and fruit, and superb balance between sugar and acidity thanks to the excellent state of the grapes after a lovely summer. It all would have been perfect, if it wasn’t for the tiny volumes harvested.
Everything began with a concentrated harvest for a concentrated wine. Those were the first words which came to mind for this memorable vintage, which in July did not look too promising, yet which was saved by August. The grape picking was a 10-day race against the rain. Although two areas, Bâtard-Montrachet and Pommard, were hit by hail, and some others suffered frost damage, the small quantities harvested were not far short of perfection: small bunches with millerandage, thick skins, and good balance.
This extreme concentration allowed for an unprecedented vinification in whole bunches, which brings more body to the wines, smoother tannins, and greater aromatic complexity. At the start of ageing, the intense bouquet of the reds and the liquid gold of the whites were the most marked characteristics of two great personalities. The one great regret is that quantities were so low – around a quarter less than usual – meaning this vintage is exceptional not only in its beauty but also its scarcity.