The World of Fine Wine – Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles rouge 2008

MARS 2010

Pays de publication : Royaume-Uni
Commentaire
: 15/20.
Ever more committed work in the vineyards (all certified biodynamic) and greater sensitivity in the winery are increasingly showing through in the wines. From 40-year-old vines in very rocky soil, this wine has an intense, slightly wild nose. Dense and medium-bodied on the palate, it is still very gentle in terms of extraction and grip, with lovely, silky tannins and very good length.
As a fascinating comparison, a parcel in the same vineyard was planted in 2002 « en foule » (sprawling, untrained, close to the ground) and vinified separately, but in the same way, since 2006. Offered only in magnums, it is appreciably different : a fresh, red licorice nose ; greater density and richness of fruit on the palate, but matched by greater acidity, energy, power and vigor. Both versions are well worth seeking out. 16/20.